The Orkney Islands - getting around Kirkwall

I can't remember when I first heard of the Orkney Islands, I do know for sure when I decided to add the Orkney Islands to my most recent UK itinerary. It was after re-watching the first episode of Simon Schama's A History of Britain and he went to Skara Brae. I knew I had to go. I jammed two and a half days into my trip, between Edinburgh and Glasgow. I regret that it was so short, but I did cover a lot of ground, literally. The Orkney Islands consists of about 70 islands, only 20 are inhabited. They are north of Scotland.

I made my way to Edinburgh Airport at O Dark-Thirty in the morning, made it through one of the most packed security lines I recall in a very long time, and with 20 minutes to spare (mainly because the other passengers were stuck in the same lines), waited for my LoganAir flight to take off. It was a pretty small plane, but not the smallest on the trip (more to come one that). The flight was uneventful, I think there were snacks and beverages served, but I honestly don't remember. I probably sleep-ate (is that a thing?) if there was. We landed, and it was one of the fastest luggage recovery experiences I've had. Then...I was a little lost, I wasn't sure exactly what I wanted to do - take a taxi, walk (really not feasible, but sometimes I just don't think) or try the bus. After grabbing a little refreshment in the airport, I gathered my wits and my suitcase and got on the airport shuttle. It was actually pretty easy; it heads into Kirkwall town center transportation hub. Once I got there, I walked to the Kirkwall ICentre to help me figure out how to get to my guesthouse accommodations. The gentleman there was helpful with directions, a pretty easy walk, but not with a suitcase. He pointed me towards the taxi headquarters (that's not what it's called, but you know what I mean). Walking into Craigies Taxis was a most fortuitous event as I met Archie and asked about a tour of the island (referred to as the 'main land') the next day (again, more about that later, I'm just building up to it). After he dropped me off at the Bellavista Guest House, I walked back into town and did some exploring.

I wanted to go to St. Magnus Cathedral, and luckily, it was open. It is free to visit, but I always try to make some kind of donation to help with the upkeep, etc. The cathedral dates back to the early 12th century. I visited many cathedrals and abbeys on this trip, and I was impressed/awestruck with all of them. The building skills required to build those huge vaulted ceilings and the artistry to create the stained glass windows just blows my mind. St. Magnus is definitely included. On my many walks around and through town, I often would use St. Magnus as a guidepost to help orient myself. 

You may notice a flag that looks Norwegian, but it's the flag of Orkney; what looks like the white outline around the blue cross is actually yellow. It definitely reflects the Viking/Nordic heritage of the islands.

 

I took a little spin through the Orkney Museum which is free and presents the history of the various  inhabitants of Orkney, going back to the Stone Age. 

I really wanted to go the Bishop's and Earl's Palaces across the road from St. Magnus, but unfortunately, I couldn't poke around the interiors because they were closed for the season. Argh. I did get some good exterior photos, although I was battling the afternoon sun.

I wandered around Kirkwall; there are a lot of shops, restaurants and businesses. It's a very walkable town center and fun to explore. I had to restrain myself from buying all kinds of souvenirs that would have included "made in Orkney" knit goods, whiskey, photographic prints, because I had no ability to carry too much with me (never fear, I went back another day and bought a beautiful scarf and some small bottles of whiskey). 

I feel very lucky that the weather was gloriously sunny, cool, but nothing I couldn't handle. I enjoyed my walk back to the guest house and ate a sandwich I bought in town and watched a variety of British dramas, intentionally avoiding the channel that had "Judge Judy", "The Big Bang Theory" and "NCIS". Heaven help me.

Stay tuned for an entry dedicated to my six hour tour of the mainland.